Our Once in a Lifetime Trip to Airelles Le Grand Controle at Versailles
At Craft, we like to think that one of the things that distinguishes us from other luxury-focused travel designers is value. A high price tag does not guarantee a high-touch experience, nor does a lower rate necessarily mean a great deal. We thrive in striking that balance, in separating the overpriced and the overated from the hidden gems, determining what and where will truly provide the best overall value for our clients.
For example, one of our favorite Douro Valley, Portugal wine lodges starts at just over 200 euros per night. We love off the beaten path islands in Colombia for beach getaways sure to deliver extra bang for your buck. In East Africa, one of the experiences I most strongly recommend to our active clients starts at $500 per person per night: a true steal if you’re at all familiar with safari prices!
Oftentimes however, a travel itinerary capable of producing sticker shock may be inextricably linked to an experience that is truly unforgettable. Redefining. Once in a lifetime. Where no substitute, however charming and worthy in its own right, could ever fully compare with its top-notch creme de la creme competitor. Where a splurge is not only worthwhile, it’s really the only way to do it.
A night at Airelles Le Grand Controle Château de Versailles is the epitome of this kind of imperative. Few other 24 hour periods of my life -professional or otherwise- have been so intoxicating and immersive. And while the bill is steep, this nearly all-inclusive experience delivers on every level, including value.
Opened in June 2021 by the renowned French hospitality group (whose properties in both St Tropez and Provence we similarly adore), Airelles’ new creation at Chateau is flawless on nearly every level. The dreamy historical building that now houses 13 unique suites was once the Ministry of the Treasury, attached to the singular Palace of Versailles, constructed in the 17th century by Louis XIV but perhaps most notable for its final residents, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. We had the privilege of staying in the Loménie de Brienne Suite where the Finance Minister, who in pre-revolutionary times essentially acted as President, conducted his business. The suite’s sprawling primary bathroom boasts original floors and the history buff in me smiled ear to ear upon learning that Ben Franklin had spent countless hours in that very room pleading with the Minister for support in our own Revolution. With a sitting area, sprawling bedroom, office and three bathrooms, we were ready to make our stay permanent. The antique furniture alone deserved days of studying.
Our stay began just after noon with an impeccable welcome from the Airelles team, all dressed in exquisite 18th century courtier attire and eager to provide us with one of the best glasses of Moet Chandon I’ve ever tasted. I’ve never been much of a bubbles gal but Katherine, my best friend and travel partner on this trip, is a champagne enthusiast (to put it lightly) and she agreed it was remarkably delicious. Ladurée macarons are sprinkled throughout the various sitting areas of the hotel tempting even the most health-conscious guest, with further delectable treats provided at the hotel’s complimentary afternoon tea time. The Valmont Spa does not disappoint; not only are treatments like personalized cellular facials enough to make you feel like royalty, guests can also enjoy an hour of privacy for just yourself and the seductive indoor 15-meter pool. Just behind the hotel are various golf carts which guests can use at disposal to explore the gardens of Versailles. And here is where the magic of Le Grand Controle truly begins.
Upon the closing of the palace’s museum to the public around 6:00pm, we were whisked with the other hotel guests up its back stairs. Within minutes, the 25 of us were the only souls in the immense and historic Versailles. We were split into two small groups with specialized tour guides, walking from room to room completely on our own. I had been to Versailles about 10 years ago and had found the crowds so overwhelming that beyond the Hall of Mirrors I really couldn’t remember anything I’d seen or its corresponding historical context. Here we took our time, spending as much or as little time as we wanted in each room, feeling as if the epic palace truly was at our disposal. Part of the fun also came in interacting with the other guests, each of us acutely aware of how remarkable this exclusive experience that we happened to be sharing together was. Katherine and I both remarked that we felt as if we were all characters in an alluring Agatha Christie plot waiting to unfold.
As night fell, with gorgeous sunset views falling upon the palace grounds strictly for our enjoyment, we walked down the stairs and entered the discreet side door of Chateau de Versailles. We quickly freshened up, excited for a dining experience we imagined would be fit for a king.
We were not disappointed. Le Grand Controle’s restaurant is run by the world’s singularly most awarded chef Alain Ducasse. With more Michelin stars than any of his peers (21 and counting), it is no surprise that this restaurant, bearing a star of its own, rises to the occasion to deliver the deliciousness and opulence one would expect when pairing Ducasse with Versailles. The experience is impeccably choreographed from start to finish: Gold-plated caviar is served with Dom Perignon as the costumed wait staff provides small performances in the spirit of 17th century era regal dining occasions. Several dishes were supposedly favorites of Louis XIV, though it is hard to imagine that any chef of the king’s could have prepared duck as divinely as Alain Ducasse and his team do.
I am perhaps an outlier in that French cuisine does not generally excite me. Yes, of course there is nothing like a Parisian boulangerie with perfectly buttered croissants. But as far as true meals go, with all of its cheeses, copious use of dairy in general and heavy, often-gamey meats, French food is not really my go-to. With that said, the dinner at Chateau de Versailles was without a doubt one of the best of my life. Part of it was no doubt the unmatched pomp and circumstance of this sensational locale and dining in what felt like a part of living history. Yet each course of our Ducasse dinner was, without question, simply flawless.
To top off our epic evening and do everything we could to further invoke the aforementioned Agatha Christie vibes, we grabbed drinks (1942 Don Julio, of course) with an entertaining couple from Luxembourg who’d driven over in their Lamborghini to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Despite their résumé of jaw-dropping luxury travel they conceded that nothing had ever been quite as remarkable as this experience.
After going to bed far too late, we were awoken in the morning by a light brushing at our door and the gentle voice of Arthur, our delightful courtier butler. We had agreed to this the day before but had not anticipated our tequila nightcap resulting in us actually still being asleep for this very personal wakeup call. The kind courtier, practicing a custom reserved for the king and queen’s morning routine, remarkably eschewed any sense of awkwardness as he gave us elixirs of orange juice and almond milk before running a bath filled with rose petals. Call it the placebo effect if you must, but the one-two punch of the morning beverage and steaming bath instantaneously revived me, relieving my mild hangover and energizing me with enthusiasm for the day ahead.
We returned to the Ducasse dining room for breakfast, where endless pastries are served in conjunction with a la carte favorites like eggs benedict, prepared so perfectly you wonder how you’ll ever order it again elsewhere. Breakfast was slightly rushed thanks to our late morning (or rather -the true culprit- late evening) and we quickly made our way outside for the second part of our private touring.
We explored the Trianon, a smaller compound annexed to the primary palace intended as a royal retreat to escape the pressures and confines of courtier life at Versailles. In many ways, the Trianon was the highlight of the touring as the rooms were designed for much more intimacy. The structure was used throughout most of the 20th century to receive world leaders, and is still used for more secretive diplomatic meetings. I found the interior design here to be much more eclectic and fascinating when compared to its sister palace next door; the various color schemes and furniture styles evoke unique ambiances suited for all occasions, whether it be a soiree for the ages or game night with the children. The beautiful quiet of the Trianon and its surrounding gardens, even further showcased by the utter lack of other tourists, was the perfect end to these unforgettable 24 hours.
Katherine and I did everything possible to extend our stay as much as possible: lingering in our room, then the lobby, then telling our driver scheduled to take us to Paris to pick us up after lunchtime instead of noon. Poor Arthur, our favorite butler, wouldn’t have been wrong to start to suspect he might have to politely ask us to leave!
Eventually we made ourselves scarce (fortunately we had a room at the Ritz Paris awaiting us, softening the blow of our departure), but not before promising each other we’d come back at least once in our lives together, possibly with our husbands, or possibly just us again to try to recreate the magic we’d experienced. We also loved the fact that Le Grand Controle offers gift certificates; what better present could you offer someone who has done and seen it all?
In conclusion, if you’re considering a stay at Airelles Le Grand Controle Chateau de Versailles, think less about the price tag and more about the value of the endless inclusions, unmatched exclusivity and wholly unique foray into a piece of history. Whether it be for a honeymoon, babymoon, anniversary trip or simply -like Katherine and me- two best friends looking to make everlasting memories, it’s hard to imagine a more compelling splurge.
